How to Tile a Shower (Step-by-Step)

Upgrading a shower with new tile can completely transform your bathroom, giving it a fresh, modern look. Tiling a shower yourself is a doable DIY project if you’re prepared and patient. In this step-by-step guide, we’ll walk you through how to tile a shower wall (and shower pan floor) from start to finish – from surface prep and waterproofing, through setting the tiles with thinset, to final grouting and sealing. Along the way, we’ll highlight important tips, including Canadian building code considerations (like proper waterproofing, which is crucial for bathroom renovations in Hamilton or anywhere!). Whether you’re a handy homeowner or just curious about the process, this guide will help you understand how a shower tile contractor would approach the job, and empower you to try it yourself or at least confidently discuss it with a pro. Let’s get tiling!

Before You Begin: Ensure you have the right tools and materials. Here’s a quick checklist of essentials for tiling a shower:

• Tools: Tile wet saw (or tile cutter), notched trowel (1/4" notch is common for wall tiles), margin trowel or putty knife (for mixing/applying small amounts), drill and mixing paddle (for mortar), level or laser level, tape measure, rubber grout float, sponge, buckets, tile spacers, utility knife, caulking gun.

• Materials: Cement backer board (or a waterproof backer like Schluter Kerdi-Board) for walls, waterproofing membrane (either a liquid like RedGard or a sheet membrane), thinset mortar (modified for most applications), shower floor pan liner or preformed shower pan (if doing the floor), tiles for walls and floor (ensure floor tiles are slip-resistant for safety), tile edging trim (if needed for edges/niches), grout (unsanded for small joints or sanded for larger joints), grout sealer, silicone caulk (for corners and changes of plane).

Safety: Always use eye protection when cutting tiles (wet saws can spray water and debris). Wear a mask when mixing mortar or grout (to avoid inhaling dust) and use gloves when handling mortar, grout, or liquid waterproofing.

Now, let’s go through the process step by step.

Step 1: Prepare and Waterproof the Shower Surface

Goal: Create a solid, moisture-proof substrate for the tile. Proper prep is critical – you cannot tile over ordinary drywall or uneven, dirty surfaces in a shower thespruce.com.

1. Remove Old Materials: If you’re remodeling an existing shower, start by removing the old shower surround or tiles down to the studs thespruce.com. This typically involves demo with a pry bar and hammer. Clear out all old tile, drywall, or backer board. Inspect the wall studs and subfloor – replace any rotted wood or water-damaged areas. The framing must be solid and free of mold thespruce.com.

2. Install Cement Backer Board: Unlike regular drywall, cement backer board (or an equivalent tile backer) won’t deteriorate with moisture and provides a sturdy surface for tile. Cut and screw cement boards to the wall framing around the shower. The boards should run to the top of the shower area (at least ~6 feet above the floor, per code) and down to the shower pan or tub flange. Leave a small gap (1/8") between boards and at corners. Tape the seams with alkali-resistant fiberglass mesh tape and thinset (this step is like mudding drywall joints, but with thinset mortar)angiesroost.com angiesroost.com – this reinforces the joints and creates a continuous surface for tiling.

3. Waterproof the Shower Walls: This is a critical step that many DIYers might overlook, but it’s required by building codes in most places (Ontario Building Code requires a waterproof wall surround in showers markham.ca). There are two main methods:

   • Liquid Waterproofing Membrane: This is a paint-on (or roll-on) rubberized product (e.g., RedGard). After the cement board is up and seams are taped, you apply the liquid membrane to all shower walls (and the floor if it’s a tiled floor pan). It goes on bright pink and dries to red angiesroost.com. Use a roller or brush to coat the entire surface, especially corners and seams. Apply at least two coats per manufacturer instructions. Once cured, it forms a continuous waterproof barrier over the backer board. Tip: Make sure to seal around any pipe penetrations (shower head, faucet) with the membrane as well.

   • Sheet Membrane Systems: These use sheets of waterproof material (like Schluter Kerdi membrane or board). For example, Kerdi-Board is a waterproof foam panel that doubles as your backer board (orange panels often seen in modern showers). Alternatively, Kerdi sheet membrane can be applied over cement board with thinset, sealing all seams with overlap and Kerdi-Band tape. This method also creates a fully waterproof enclosure. (In the image below, note the orange Schluter Kerdi membrane on the walls, indicating a waterproof backing under the thinset.) Both methods are effective; what’s important is you must have a waterproof layer behind the tile, since tile and grout are water-resistant but not totally waterproof on their own fireclaytile.com fireclaytile.com.

     

 Applying a liquid waterproofing membrane (pink turning red as it dries) on cement board walls to fully seal the shower area angiesroost.com. Proper waterproofing is essential before any tile goes up.

4. Shower Pan/Basin Prep: If you have a tiled shower floor, you’ll need to prepare the shower pan area as well. This could involve installing a vinyl/rubber liner for the pan (common with a mortar bed floor) or using a pre-formed waterproof shower base. Many DIYers opt for a slope mortar bed + liner + cement board floor or a Schluter Kerdi pre-sloped pan and Kerdi membrane on the floor tying into the walls. Ensure the drain is properly installed and any liner is correctly placed and leak-tested (plug the drain and fill pan with water to test for no leaks). Slope is crucial: the floor must slope toward the drain (~1/4" per foot) to prevent water pooling. If this seems daunting, you might get a prefabricated shower base or consult a shower tile contractor for the floor portion, as a leaky shower pan is a big problem. Many Hamilton bathroom renovations use Schluter systems or similar for reliability.

At this point, you should have cementitious surfaces that are taped and waterproofed, a leak-proof shower pan ready, and solid backing everywhere tile will go (including any niches or benches built and waterproofed). The prep work is perhaps 50% of the effort, but it ensures your tiled shower will last for decades without issues.

Step 2: Plan the Tile Layout

Before slapping mortar on the wall, take time to plan your tile layout. Proper layout will make the finished shower look professional and balanced.

• Measure and Mark Guide Lines: Find the vertical and horizontal center lines of your walls. Often, it looks best to have a symmetrical layout – meaning equal cut tile sizes at both ends of each wall. However, avoid having tiny sliver cuts which are hard to install and look awkward. Adjust the layout so you don’t end up with cuts smaller than half a tile at corners or edges. Use a level to draw vertical plumb lines and horizontal level lines as references on the wall (these can correspond to grout lines or tile edges). Many tilers will start with a ledger board temporarily screwed to the wall a row up from the bottom to ensure the first row is perfectly level (especially if not tiling all the way down to a tub deck or base). In showers, the base might not be perfectly level, so a ledger helps start the tiling straight and you’ll cut the bottom row of tiles to fit the uneven gap later.

• Determine Pattern and Tile Placement: Decide on the pattern (straight grid, brick/subway staggered, diagonal, etc.) and account for any accent rows or niches. If using accent mosaic strips or different tile in niches, plan those transitions (often you might use a bullnose or edge trim to finish edges). Also plan how you will handle internal corners – typically you overlap tiles from one wall over the other (leaving a grout gap at the corner) rather than using corner trim. For edges of the tile (if not going wall-to-wall), plan for bullnose trim pieces or metal edging (like Schluter strips) for a clean finish.

• Dry Fit Tiles (Optional): On a floor or large work surface, you can lay out a row or two of tiles with spacers to see how the sizing works out. This helps confirm your measurements and the size of end cuts. If you find that a 5-foot wall would require a tiny 1-inch cut piece at the end, you can adjust by starting with a half tile instead of a full, etc. Minor tweaks make a difference in aesthetics.

Spending time on layout prevents headaches once you start setting tiles. Mark reference points on the walls (chalk lines or pencil) for where each course of tile should land. Remember to account for grout line thickness (use spacers of the desired size – common spacers are 1/16" for tight subway tile looks, 1/8" or 3/16" for larger tiles). Now you’re ready to mix up some mortar and start tiling!

Step 3: Install the Wall Tiles

With everything prepped and your layout planned, it’s time to actually tile the shower:

1. Mix the Thinset Mortar: Use a quality modified thinset that’s appropriate for your tile type (check the bag instructions – some mortars are formulated for large format tiles, etc.). In a bucket, add water then powder (per product ratio) and mix with a drill paddle mixer until it’s a peanut butter-like consistency with no dry lumps. Let it slake (sit) for 5-10 minutes, then mix again. Only mix as much as you can use in about 30-40 minutes (the pot life). Tip: Don’t add extra water after slaking; keep the mix consistent or it weakens the mortar.

2. Apply Mortar to Wall: Start at your established starting point (often one row above the shower floor or tub, using a level ledger as mentioned). Using the notched trowel, spread thinset on a section of the wall about the size of a few tiles at a time. Hold the trowel at a 45° angle to create even ridges of mortar after combing. Apply a little extra on seams or low spots to ensure full coverage. It’s crucial to get good coverage on each tile (at least 95-100% coverage in wet areas fireclaytile.com). For larger wall tiles (e.g. 12x24"), “back-butter” each tile as well – i.e., spread a thin layer on the back of the tile in addition to troweling the wall, to help achieve full adhesion.

3. Set the Tile: Press the tile into the mortar firmly with a slight twisting motion. You should see mortar squeeze out a bit on the sides – that indicates good contact. Place spacers between tiles to maintain even grout joints (e.g., those little X or T shaped plastic spacers). Use your level frequently to check that tiles are plumb and flat. Avoid lippage – adjacent tiles should be flush with each other. If one tile sits proud, remove it and either scrape away a bit of mortar or add more mortar under the neighboring tile as needed to make them even. This is where those leveling clip systems can help on large tiles. Work in sections, typically one row at a time.

 Pressing subway tiles into the thinset on the shower wall and inserting green cross spacers for even gaps. Note the use of a laser level line and the orange waterproof backer board behind the mortar erinzubotdesign.com erinzubotdesign.com.

Keep an eye on alignment as you go. For subway tile or any pattern, step back every so often and ensure the rows remain level and the pattern is consistent (it’s easy to drift). If you need to cut a tile to fit at edges or around fixtures, measure the gap carefully and use the appropriate cutting method:

• For simple straight cuts on ceramic or porcelain, a manual snap cutter works great and is quick erinzubotdesign.com erinzubotdesign.com.

• For more precise or L-shaped cuts (around a valve, etc.), use a wet saw which can do plunge cuts and notches erinzubotdesign.com.

• A hole saw bit is used for circular holes (like a shower head pipe).Always wear safety glasses when cutting tiles. If using a wet saw, keep it outside or in a well-ventilated area as it sprays water.

Continue tiling the walls upward course by course. Typically do the back wall first (if applicable), then the side walls, so that the side wall tiles can overlap the edges of the back wall tiles in the corners for a neater look. When you reach the top or any edges, you’ll likely need to cut tiles to fit. Leave a small gap (about 1/8") at the very top and at corners for caulk later (do not grout where tile meets a different plane; caulk it to allow movement).

If you are also tiling the shower floor, you would do that after the wall tiles (except maybe the bottom row of wall tile). Once wall tiles are mostly set (and ideally the bottom row left open), tile the floor:

• Ensure the shower floor mortar bed or base is fully waterproofed (with membrane overlapping up walls a bit).

• Use small mosaic tiles (2x2” or similar) on the floor, as these conform to the slope better and provide more grout lines for slip resistance (choose tiles with a slip-resistant surface; many shower floor tiles have a matte finish and are porcelain for durability).

• The floor tile sheets are set into combed thinset just like walls. Press them in evenly, keeping sheet edges aligned so the pattern looks consistent. After it sets up a bit, you can gently tap with a grout float to ensure they’re level and well embedded.

• Floor tile spacers typically built-in if sheets, but if not, use them. Maintain proper slope to drain (no low spots).

• Wipe out excess mortar from grout joints with a sponge before it hardens.

Let all tiles set. Thinset cure times vary, but generally you’d let the tiles dry overnight at least before grouting. (While you wait, make sure to remove any mortar that oozed out and hardened in the joints – use a utility knife or scraper to clean grout lines; this will make grouting much easier.)

Step 4: Grout the Tile

Grouting is the process of filling the spaces between tiles, giving a finished look and reinforcing the surface. It’s one of the final steps and quite satisfying!

1. Choose the Right Grout: For narrow joints (1/8" or less, typical for wall tile) use unsanded grout (it’s smooth and works into small gaps). For larger joints (like 1/4"), use sanded grout (has sand for strength and to prevent shrinkage). There are also epoxy grouts which are very durable and stain-proof (great for showers to prevent mildew), though they are a bit trickier to apply. In many bathroom renovations in Hamilton, installers use high-quality cementitious grout with a polymer additive or opt for epoxy to resist mold.

2. Mix the Grout: Follow the package instructions. Mix to a toothpaste-like consistency – not too runny. Let it sit (slake) if required, then remix. Only mix as much as you can apply in about 20-30 minutes since grout can start to stiffen.

3. Apply Grout: Use a rubber grout float, hold it at 45°, and spread grout onto the tile surface. Work it diagonally across the tiles, pressing firmly to pack the grout into all the joints erinzubotdesign.com. Go over each area multiple times from different angles to ensure full joint coverage. You want all the lines completely filled with no air gaps. It’s messy – you’ll have grout smears all over the tile, that’s expected.

   

   
   

 Spreading white grout over the tiled wall using a rubber grout float, pressing firmly to fill all gaps erinzubotdesign.com. The excess will be wiped off, leaving grout only in the seams between tiles.

4. Clean as You Go: After letting the grout sit on the tile for about 5-15 minutes (follow product timing), begin cleaning the surface. Use a damp sponge (wring it out well) and gently wipe the tile surface in a circular motion or at a 45° angle to the joints erinzubotdesign.com. Rinse the sponge often. The goal is to remove grout from the tile faces while not pulling it out of the joints. It usually takes several passes with the sponge. Don’t use too much water as it can dilute the grout. Tip: It’s much easier to clean grout haze if you do it while it’s fresh; if you wait too long, it hardens and requires a haze remover later.

5. Cure and Final Clean: After initial sponging, there will still be a light haze on the tiles. Let the grout firm up as directed (usually a few hours) then buff off the haze with a soft cloth or cheesecloth. You might notice a haze again the next day – buff again. The grout needs to cure, so avoid heavy water exposure for at least 48-72 hours. If using cementitious grout, mist it with water occasionally during the first 24 hours to help it cure harder (per manufacturer).

6. Seal the Grout (if needed): Many modern grouts are polymer-fortified and claim to be stain-resistant, but it’s often recommended to seal cement-based grout in a shower for extra protection against moisture and stains. Once the grout has fully cured (per instructions, maybe after 2-3 days), apply a penetrating grout sealer over the grout lines with a small brush or spray bottle, then wipe off excess. This will help your grout resist mold and remain looking new longer.

Step 5: Finishing Touches

You’re almost done! The last steps will ensure the shower is not only beautiful but also well-protected at the joints and corners:

• Caulk Corners and Edges: In any shower, all change-of-plane joints (where walls meet each other or meet the floor/tub) should be caulked, not grouted. This is because walls can move slightly and grout would crack. Use a quality silicone caulk in a color matching your grout (many grout lines offer matching caulk). Apply caulk in the vertical wall corners, along the base of the wall tile where it meets the tub or shower floor, and around any plumbing fixtures or trim. Smooth it neatly with a wet finger or caulk tool. This seals those joints against water. Silicone is best for longevity in wet areas (it won’t shrink or crack like acrylic caulk).

• Install Fixtures and Shower Doors: Re-attach or install the showerhead, faucet trim, and any other fixtures (ensure you put silicone around escutcheons to prevent water intrusion). If you had removed an old shower door or curtain, install the new one as per instructions (for glass doors, follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for drilling into tile, and use caulk along the edges to waterproof).

• Clean Up: Give the tiles a thorough cleaning with a non-abrasive cleaner to remove any remaining construction dust or grout residue. Polish the tiles and check that all grout lines are full and even (if you find a pinhole or missed spot in grout, you can mix a tiny bit and patch it).

• Final Inspection: Ensure everything is watertight. No gaps in caulking, grout sealed, fixtures tight. Turn on the shower and carefully observe around the shower pan and plumbing penetrations to verify no leaks. Check that water drains properly and doesn’t puddle on the floor tiles.

Your tiled shower is now complete and ready to use! Step back and admire the fresh tile work. The new tiled shower will not only enhance the look of your bathroom but also add value to your home (bathroom upgrades are a big selling point in home renovations).

Maintenance Tip: Keep a squeegee handy and encourage daily use to wipe down water from the tiles and glass – this greatly reduces hard water stains and mildew. Reseal grout annually (if using cement grout) to keep it waterproof. With proper care, your tiled shower will sparkle for years.

Canadian Code Consideration Recap

In Canada (Ontario specifically), remember that building code insists on proper waterproofing of shower enclosures. For example, the Ontario code demands a waterproof wall surface to ~6 feet on shower walls markham.ca and requires tile be backed by moisture-resistant board markham.ca. We’ve covered this by using cement board and a membrane. If you were doing a bathroom renovation in Hamilton professionally, an inspector would check that you installed a suitable water barrier. So don’t skimp on this step – it’s critical for longevity and passing any inspections. Also, always slope floors to the drain and use approved materials (thinset, not tile adhesive mastic in showers, for instance).

When to Call a Pro

Tiling a shower is one of the more advanced DIY jobs due to the critical waterproofing and many detailed steps. It’s absolutely fine to decide to hire a tile install Hamilton contractor if you feel out of your depth. For instance, if your shower has multiple niches, benches, complex patterns, or if you’re uncomfortable with the pan construction, a professional can ensure it’s done right. A bathroom renovations Hamilton specialist will have experience with local building practices and can often complete the work faster (they’ve done it dozens of times). You might also consider a pro for just parts of the job – some homeowners do the demolition and prep, then have a pro do the waterproofing and tiling. Get quotes and weigh the cost vs. your ability. A poorly installed shower that leaks can cause extensive damage, so be realistic about your skills.

However, many determined DIYers have successfully tiled their own showers by following guides like this and taking it slow. If you choose to DIY, now you have the knowledge to do it step by step. The reward is a beautiful new shower that you can proudly say you built with your own hands!